Fishing Gear – Handy Fishing Tools You Won’t Leave Home

Fishing Gear - Handy Fishing Tools You Won't Leave Home Without

A fisherman carries a lot of gear besides that rod and tackle. The reasons aren't hard to find, since a good angler has to work with sharp hooks and stubborn fish. A toolkit that makes those things easier to manage leaves more time for fishing. Who wouldn't want that?

A pair of pliers is a basic element of that toolkit. But the average household needlenose item just won't cut the mustard. Fishing pliers are specially designed to make hook shaping and removal and the hundred other things they're used for a simple job. Many offer tungsten carbide cutters that'll never wear out. They're also specially treated to resist corrosion much better than the average home pliers.

A split shot crimper, special ergonomic grips and a split nose ring are just a few of the features good fishing pliers will have that are foreign to the household type. Unlike home pliers, they're handier with the jaws open, so a center spring is a must. Like the home style, any good one will incorporate a good wire cutter. But fishing pliers go beyond this since they'll be used to cut monofilament and fluorocarbon lines.

One tool that not every fisherman thinks about, but should, is a lure retriever. These are metal spirals on a long pole. They look (and are) simple, but the job they do is priceless. Ever get that favorite lure stuck underwater on a rock, log or other obstruction? Sure you have. Feel like diving for it? Didn't think so.

With a lure retriever, it's a simple matter to telescope out the pole, wrap it around the line at the lure, then give a gentle push to free that favorite. The only downside is that it will come up so easily you'll be reminded there's no fish on the end.

Don't forget to include a sharpener or two in the tool box, either.

Since you'll be carrying a ton of hooks, a few knives and other gear a sharpener is a must. Sure, you could just toss a hook that's dull. But apart from parting with your favorite Aberdeen, doesn't that get expensive pretty quickly? You bet it does. A premium hook sharpener will be one that's easy to use under real life conditions and just won't wear out.

A knife sharpener requires even higher standards. You'll be cutting line, boning fish and doing lots of other tasks that will dull your blade before you know it. A simple block just doesn't do the trick. They get slimy and useless pretty quickly.

But a pocket-sized, pen-style sharpener in a case will be protected until you need it. Then the diamond-dust covered surface will do the job right in a jiffy. Sharpen broadheads, hooks, shears and all your knives with ease thanks to the tough file and ergonomic handle.

Be sure to stock your toolbox with all the right tools. You'll have much more time for fishing. That's the whole idea, after all.

Fishing Gear – Fishing Rod Buyer’s Guidelines

The basic rule of thumb for buying a fishing rod is to match the rod to the type of fishing you intend to do most often. But how do you go about that?

For the average lake trout a standard rod of about 6 feet will do fine. In an area near the shore where there are lots of trees, something highly responsive is a good idea. Control really counts in circumstances like these. A flexible rod, a little on the shorter side that supports at least 10 lb line is great.

An ultra-light rod might be used to fish off a pier or for younger anglers. The rod should support lines between 2-6 lbs and lures of up to 1/8 oz. For a slightly heavier-duty purpose, something made for 4-10 lb line and 5/16 oz lures is preferable.

For those looking for a rod that's a bit more general purpose, a spinning rod will perform under a wide range of conditions. Typically between 6 and 7 feet long, they'll support lures with bait up to 1/2 oz with ease. Designed more for freshwater fishing, they'll work well for light duty saltwater fishing as well.

Fly fishing is one of America's favorite pastimes and the scenes from films like A River Runs Through It give a good feel for how great it can be. It's a little harder to learn to do well, but the rod itself is easy to handle. The handle is usually much shorter, just a few inches, than the standard 8-12 inch cork or foam-covered style of regular rods. When they do have longer handles, they tend to be much more tapered.

The reel on a fly fishing rod isn't used for casting, but only for holding line. As the name of the style suggests, the rod is pulled up and flicked, just like you've seen in the movies. That implies the need for a rod that is flexible, lightweight and has good action.

For those who need a little more security - which can be especially useful for those larger fighting fish - a tapered handle with a fighting butt is recommended. A 'fighting butt' is a handle with a small, integrated curved piece like an immovable trigger. It provides a sturdy hold for a finger to prevent the rod from being yanked away.

Lastly, check the type of guides or ferrules used on the rod and how they're secured. These are the 'eyes' that the line feeds through from the reel to the tip-top (the end). Some are made of ceramic others simple metal alloys. They should be very low friction for easy casting and rewind, to prevent snagging. They should be attached securely, usually with multiple winds of extremely strong fiber.

Spend some time considering the type of fish you're going after and where. Saltwater rods, for example, are made to stand up to a harsher environment, since the fish tend to be larger and the water will corrode lesser materials.

Fishing Gear – Fishing Rod Basics

Fishing is an ancient practice and rod designs go back centuries. But the modern sport fishing rod has evolved considerably away from its ancestors. Far from a simple bamboo stick with a piece of twine made from long plants, it is now a modern marvel.

Most contemporary fishing rods are made from fiberglass or graphite, though boron composites and even titanium are used in some. Bamboo is even still used in some really high-end rods. Both fiberglass and graphite are lightweight, highly flexible and yet can stand up to considerable strain. When a 15 lb bucketmouth bass is on the line it needs to take some punishment.

Graphite rods are the most popular today. They vary in length anywhere from a child's rod of about 4 feet up to 12 feet or more for a heavy saltwater rod designed to catch a large marlin. The average for a novice comes in at about 6 feet. It's not necessary to take a tape measure along while shopping, though. The length is printed right on the handle.

Also on the handle is sometimes an indication of what is known as the 'action'. That term refers to the amount of flex or bend the rod is designed to show when that big one you want to land is struggling on the hook.

A fast action rod has minimal bend, with the curve reaching down to only about the upper 1/3 of the rod. A medium action rod will extend that curve down to about the halfway point. A slow action fishing rod may flex all the way to the top of the handle.

Those two characteristics help determine which rod is right for what type of fish and landscape. But a third element is also key: the type of reel and line used.

A spincasting rod, for example, contains a reel that holds line in an enclosed mechanism with a small hole in the face. That cone helps keep the line from tangling, which is useful to novices who need a little extra help.

They're shorter and more flexible and are designed to be used with lighter duty line, such as 4-8 pound test. The number indicates the amount of strain the line will take before snapping. They're a great choice for younger or less experienced anglers. Spincasting rods will do fine for those going after small trout.

A spinning rod, for comparison, is a little longer - around 6-7 feet. They're designed for tougher fish and can accommodate reels designed to hold up to 20 pound test. When going after a serious salmon they'll stand up to the contest.

Match your rod to the style of fishing you intend to do, but don't get too wrapped up in the choice. You'll buy more than one before long and a good rod and reel combination will handle a wide variety of species and environments.

Fishing Gear – Fishing Reel Types

Sometimes it seems as if there are as many designs of fishing reel as there are species of fish. But all fall somewhere into one of a few basic categories.

Spincasting reels are the most basic. They hold the line and feeding mechanism hidden inside a container that resembles a rocket ship capsule from the 1960s. The cone section has a small hole through which the line feeds. This design helps prevent tangling or, as it's known to the pros, "a bird's nest" or 'backlash'. On the end of the reel nearest the angler there's a small thumb button that makes it easy to release or brake the line while casting.

Spincasting reels tend to be used by young children or complete novices, since the design limits the ability to cast far and with complete control. They tend to be smaller and therefore hold lighter weight line.

Once you've had an outing or two it's time to graduate to the spinning reel. Removing the 'space capsule' surrounding a spincaster would be a first step in approximating the style. The spinning reel has an open section, sometimes just an oval hole. They have a larger line capacity and allow for longer, more accurate casting.

A spinning reel with the right weight line for a particular application allows for smooth, long-distance casting with high accuracy and low chance of tangling or 'woofs'. Reels may have one knob or two on the crank, but they both perform in much the same way, allowing for low friction, tangle-free spooling of extended line. They are mounted below the rod.

Baitcasting reels are mounted above the rod, making them a little more difficult to handle. They have a center pin and the disks are connected by a series of outer pins that exposes the line. Some are made partly from composites, but the majority are still stainless steel, often with brass parts in certain sections. They tend to use very sturdy drag mechanisms to slow larger, stronger fish and are intended to be used with heavier lures.

Fly fishing reels are different from any of these, since they are designed only to hold the line, not to cast it. A section of line is spooled off by hand, then released as the rod flicks forward. Contemporary models do incorporate a drag mechanism to prevent the fish from pulling out more line that is desired.

Some sport an automatic fly reel mechanism for spooling line just by pressing a lever. Unlike the traditional reel, a simple press of the thumb activates a spring that pulls line back in with virtually no effort. Though it might seem like an advance, anglers often prefer to do things the old-fashioned way. That maximizes control and provides part of the joy that comes from skillful reeling.

Saltwater reels, as the name suggests, are designed specifically for saltwater fishing. Since the salt in ocean and seawater will ruin any ordinary metal in short order, this type is made with special alloys or coatings to prevent corrosion. That can be anything from electroplated tin to stainless steel to a type of aluminum specifically designed to oxidize so that the metal underneath does not.

Match the reel to the type of fishing you intend to do, and your level of expertise, and you can't go wrong.

Fishing Gear – Fishing Reel Buying Guidelines

Which fishing reel to buy will hinge, not surprisingly, on a number of factors: cost, reliability, favorite brand and other factors. But the most important and basic criterion will remain application. The reel has to work well for what it was designed to do.

Experience level plays a part. A spincasting reel is recommended for novices. A spinning reel will be better for a wider variety of levels and circumstances. A baitcasting reel is recommended only for those who have a bit more experience.

One of the oldest divisions among the reels is the type of spooling mechanism used.

Older models used a direct-drive reel. In this type, the spool and handle are directly coupled so that as the crank was turned the spool unwinds or is rewound. Unfortunately, the reverse was true, too. If the spool unwound, say very rapidly as a determined fish pulled away, the handle could turn equally rapidly. That had some nasty consequences for any fingers that happened to be in the way.

The problem was solved in one way by the introduction of the anti-reverse reel. It incorporates gearing that allows the line to spool out without turning the handle. A modification called the IAR (Instant Anti-Reverse) includes a ratchet that allows the handle to move only one way, unless a lever is pressed to release it.

Though the direct-drive design has been around much longer, it is still used in some models. Safety has been enhanced by use of IAR-type mechanisms that allow the angler to make a setting to prevent that kind of earlier backlash.

Some designs, that have actually been around since the 1960s, offer an automatic rewind mechanism. They were more often used on fly fishing reels, but even there they proved only mildly popular for a while. Anglers enjoy doing things the old-fashioned way and part of the pleasure comes from that slow reel back. Besides, the automatic rewind is only useful when you haven't hooked anything and that's not a fun circumstance, anyway.

Gearing is important in a reel, too. A 3:1 gear ratio turns the spool three times for every turn of the handle through 360 degrees. By comparison, a 6:1 ratio saves a lot of unnecessary effort on an empty line, as it provides more crank for the effort. But the lower ratio provides more torque, which is helpful for reeling in those big beauties.

Apart from the spooling mechanism, other factors play a role that is dictated by the type of fishing you favor.

Reels may be made of aluminum, stainless steel or in some cases even special composites. Something lightweight like aluminum can be perfect for those smaller outings where the angler is standing near the lake shoreline. Stainless steel works better on heavy-duty trips where a big marlin is your target. Aluminum makes for a little easier time of things but stainless steel will stand up to saltwater and hard use much better. The total weight of the reel isn't important, but it does play a role in how easy or difficult it is to crank.

Last, the drag mechanism should be easy to use and appropriate for the species and landscape in which you fish. The drag mechanism makes it difficult for the fish to pull additional line out, but most are designed to allow some pay out in order to avoid snapping the line (unless the angler locks it down intentionally).

A front drag system puts the controls in front and usually offers greater durability and increased friction. Rear drag controls are easier for some to use, which is handy when you've got that fighting fish on the line and you need to play him. They tend not be quite as sturdy when faced with that large one, though, creating a convenient occasion for that traditional fisherman's fib about the one that got away.

But, then, no true angler would blame his gear.

Fishing Gear – Fishing Knives for Every Purpose

Ever been out on the boat and suddenly find you didn't bring the right knife? Sure, we all have. There are a half-dozen different types that are darn near indispensable. When it comes to fishing, a general purpose knife alone just doesn't, as the saying goes, cut it.

The first addition to the toolkit might be that multi-purpose Swiss knife you dreamed about as a boy. Sure, all the gadgets on board look cool, but they also serve a variety of needs that always come up when you're outdoors fishing.

A flathead screwdriver performs a needed service from time to time. And when it's needed, it's needed badly. There's always one in the handle. Those small scissors that fit neatly into the other side are equally useful for snipping line, freeing bait and other tasks. A small file is always handy for sharpening a hook and it slides in invisibly to the knife. Then, of course, there's the basic blade that will get used a hundred times a day.

No fisherman would leave home without a filleting and boning knife, of course. There's just no substitute for that long, thin, serrated blade with a sturdy ergonomic handle. They stand up to tough use and provide a non-slip grip. For those who tend to slip anyway during the procedure, there are rounded-tip styles available.

But, before you can fillet a fish you have to catch one, right? A bait knife is a must. You'll want one with a stout, short blade that needs sharpening rarely. With a rubber, non-slip handle you'll be in business in short order. Just so it's always handy, don't forget to pick out an excellent sheath that will slide easily onto your belt.

There will be lots of times you have to cut line. Some fishermen prefer to use pliers with a built-in cutter. Others still find a knife works best for them. When you're attaching that leader to the end of your line, you want a knife that can go through braid like it was nothing. You want non-frayed ends. A good fishing knife will do all that and more.

For those who like to carry as little gear as possible, there are also knives that offer interchangeable blades. Unlike a folding multi-purpose knife, these styles actually allow you to swap out a fillet blade for a saw or non-serrated style. Blades lock in safely but release with the touch of a button. With a handy carrying case you can cut down on the gear and still have everything you need.

Naturally, you'll want to pocket at least one all around Buck knife. They have a lock to keep the blade securely in place, but are easy to fold when you want to put it safely away. These babies are just about as handy as it gets. You won't be leaving this one in the tool box because you'll be too busy showing it off to your envious fishing buddies.

Now, pack your knives and get fishing!